Tilda Rock’s two week adventure in Guatemala & Belize
Belize and Guatemala, despite being neighbours, are wonderfully distinct. Their differing colonial histories have led to a diversity in language and culture which makes for a stimulating contrast.
I kicked off my trip in Antigua, wandering down cobbled streets in what used to be the capital of Guatemala, popping into buzzing markets and crumbling churches, which were stripped in the 18th Century to provide riches for the new capital of Guatemala City. I stayed at the wonderful Villa Bokèh, a verdant oasis just 10 minutes out of town. Next, it was off to the hills for a brilliantly dramatic hike up the Pacaya volcano.
Although feeling a little apprehensive of the adventure ahead, the route was a straightforward 2 hours, with plenty of viewpoints to catch one’s breath. My brilliant guide, Ronny, explained all manner of wildlife and history. Having toasted a marshmallow on volcanic steam, we headed back down through the lava fields to drive onto Casa Palopó, on the shores of Lake Atitlan. Here, I witnessed the pervading cultural and religious syncretism between the myriad indigenous communities in the area and their Spanish invaders.
Next stop; Tikal, the great Maya city in northeast Guatemala, and the location for George Lucas’ Star Wars: A New Hope. After an evening watching monkeys scampering in the trees overhead and a good night’s sleep at La Lancha, we set off early towards the ruins to beat the crowds. It is an awesome feeling walking around an ancient city belonging to another time and culture is difficult to express, populated by the Jurassic sound of howler monkeys in stereo!
The following morning, after stopping at another astounding Maya city, Yaxhà, it was time to bid farewell to Guatemala and cross into Belize. Driving towards my first stop, Chaa Creek, the change in atmosphere was instantly recognisable. Belizeans are notoriously laidback, evident as we made our way through small towns of wooden houses on stilts built by the British in the 1860s.
We were up early again the next day for our visit to Caracol, Belize’s largest Maya city. We were the first visitors, which allowed me to clamber up the sprawling excavated temples for a view of the surrounding forest and some very welcome breeze! I then headed to the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, which, rather surreally, felt like Belize’s (very hot!) answer to Norway, with its vast expanse of pine trees, waterfalls and deep crevasses. Here, I stayed at the Hidden Valley Wilderness Lodge which, with its 90 miles of hiking trails, was a spectacular way to experience the area.
After another early start, we embarked on the biggest highlight of them all as we had a short walk through the forest before reaching the mouth of the Achtun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave. We weaved for an hour and a half through waist high water and stalagmites. We were the only ones there so had it to ourselves. Here we discovered Mayan ceramics, remains of ceremonial offerings to the gods during a 50 year drought. As we progressed deeper into the cave, the more their increased desperation became apparent, resorting to human sacrifices which had calcified to the rock.
Onwards to the wonderfully laid back beach town of Placencia, I was staying at Francis Ford Coppola’s Turtle Inn. Here I had the privilege of joining the NGO Fragments of Hope on a visit to their coral nurseries at Laughing Bird Caye, who are carrying out fantastic work to regenerate Belize’s barrier reef, the second largest in the world. That evening, we hit the town with the locals and met Belize’s rising star, Kylon Eiley, singing in his favourite bar.
The following day, I headed off to meet Bobby, a resident of Placencia and a part of the Garifuna community, who form a significant part of the Belizean population and culture. Bobby gave a brilliant lesson in traditional Garifuna cooking; setting me to work beating plantain in the traditional method and searing fish over the woon fire. Next, it was time to make chocolate, Belize style. The class was given in the most jaw-dropping setting; atop an unexcavated Mayan temple. We hand roasted cacao beans with expansive views over the jungle, before heading on to Copal Tree Lodge, serenaded by howler monkeys over dinner.
Our final stop was the island of Ambergris Caye, which we reached aboard in a small 12 seater Cessna, providing incredible views over the islands. On arrival in Ambergris Caye, I was greeted by Matachica’s boat and my favourite cocktail. The afternoon was spent swimming and sunbathing, before a delicious dinner.
For my final day in Belize I made my way out to the reef, snorkel in hand, to see more species of fish than I could count, including a few barracuda, parrotfish, angelfish and enormous groupers. We then continued on to a different part of the reef, where I jumped in to find myself surrounded by rays and nurse sharks.
It was then time to settle in for a mountain of fresh ceviche and an ice-cold beer; a perfect end to an enlightening adventure!
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