Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, is the capital of Tierra del Fuego in Argentine Patagonia – and far more than just a place to catch a ship south.
The city wears its nickname proudly: El fin del mundo (the end of the world). Set at the edge of the Beagle Channel, it’s closer to Antarctica than Buenos Aires; the White Continent lies just 1,000km away, making it the main departure point for polar expeditions.
Yet look more closely, and there is more to explore here beyond just the port; Ushuaia is rapidly modernising, and is full of stories about prisoners and missionaries, indigenous tribes and Antarctic explorers. Here, our guide to how to spend a day or two in and around the city, before or after your Antarctic voyage.
Museum of the Prison of Ushuaia
Built in 1902 to house Argentina’s most notorious criminals and political dissidents, Ushuaia’s penitentiary quickly became known as the Alcatraz of Argentina. The prison housed 600 convicts from all over the country, forced into manual labour, and their work became integral to the building of the city, constructing local houses and supplying the town with firewood, bread, and electrical power.
The prison closed in 1947, and now functions as a museum. Its rows of draughty cells have been preserved as they were left, complete with scraps and memorabilia from the final prisoners. There’s a detailed photographic exhibition, and local guides are on hand to recount tales of grim escapes – in one notable example, a group of escapees begged to be let back in, defeated by the harsh Patagonian wilderness beyond the prison walls. Among numerous workshops at the prison were a shoe repair, tailors, carpenters, bakery and pharmacy, all of which can be explored on a visit.
Along with the prison museum, the building also houses the Maritime Museum, Antarctic Museum, and Marine Art Gallery.
Learn About the Yamana
Before the colonists arrived, the islands south of the Isla de Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn belonged to the Yamana, the indigenous tribe of southern Patagonia.
The Yamana people lived in canoes and wore little or no clothing, using sea lion grease for insulation against the cold weather. Men would hunt for sea lions using harpoons and women would dive for shellfish, building small fires on their canoes for cooking.
The last pure blood Yamana descendent, Cristina Calderon, died in 2022 at the age of 93. Local guides recount her story, alongside accounts of the tribe’s contact with maritime explorers in the early 1800’s. One particularly disturbing tale is that of Robert Fitzroy, captain of the HMS Beagle, who took a number of ‘Fuegians’ hostage, decided to ‘civilise’ them and presented them at court in London on his return home – a bizarre footnote in the annals of exploration.
Tierra del Fuego National Park
West of Ushuaia lies Tierra del Fuego’s spectacular National Park, home to countless rivers and glacial lakes to explore by kayak, and top-notch trekking routes through the mountains.
The region’s wildlife includes Magellanic penguins, cormorants and sealions, all unusually unconcerned by visitors, allowing them to be observed at close proximity.
The narrow-gauge ‘Train to the End of the World’, first laid by prisoners to haul timber, still runs and is worth a ride for those with a taste for curiosities. The more dramatic way to see the park’s scenery is by helicopter, revealing snowfields, high-altitude lagoons and remote penguin colonies, far from civilisation.
Estancia Harberton
Located on a rugged peninsula on the Beagle channel, Estancia Harberton is Patagonia’s oldest farm, and one of its most historically intriguing. The original 1886 farm house, which belonged to Anglican missionary, Thomas Bridges, was built in Devon and then shipped across the Atlantic to be reconstructed exactly as it was. Bridges also brought the first ever car to Patagonia, and compiled the first dictionary of the Yamana Tribe’s native language.
The estancia remains in family hands. The original house and outbuildings have been left unchanged, and are now a museum to show what settler life was like in Patagonia in the late 19th century. It was the first productive enterprise in Tierra del Fuego, and still exports wool and leather to this day.
Where to Stay
Los Cauquenes Hotel
Los Cauquenes is a boutique hotel just outside Ushuaia, constructed from local wood and stone in the style of a mountain chalet. Staff here are warm and welcoming, and the hotel feels typically Patagonian. Many rooms look straight onto the Beagle Channel, and top suites feature wide terraces.
The outdoor area has heated and wind-protected platforms allowing guests to sit out and enjoy the view, whatever the weather. Fires are lit in the evenings, and the restaurant, Reinamora, serves Patagonian produce alongside a strong Argentine wine list.
Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa
High above the city in a protected reserve, Arakur has an incredible vantage point over the Beagle Channel. Rooms are vast and contemporary, and the outdoor hot tubs are a highlight, particularly after a trek in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Its location near the port also works well for those embarking on Antarctic cruises.
For those considering a journey to the southern tip of Patagonia, whether as a standalone adventure or as the staging point for an Antarctic crossing, Plan South America can arrange the details: from private guides and off-grid excursions to the most comfortable bases in and around the city. We also handle Antarctic departures, whether aboard an expedition vessel or a privately chartered yacht.
If you’re contemplating a voyage to the end of the world, speak to our travel designers we’ll make sure it feels like far more than a mere stopover.
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Considering a journey to the end of the world? Speak to our specialists today.
Conde Nast Traveler Specialists every year since 2017
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