Cathy Brown’s Advice on Mendoza, Argentina | Plan South America

48 hours in Mendoza – where to stay, eat and explore?

I would head straight to Valle de Uco and check-in to a 1-bedroom villa at The Vines of Mendoza. In a whirlwind 48 hours, you could eat an expertly cooked ‘ojo de bife’ (ribeye steak) at Francis Mallmann’s Siete Fuegos restaurant, do a very fun and hands-on wine blending class with a Vines wine expert, bicycle or walk to nearby bodegas such as SuperUco and Solo Contigo for tastings, and venture into the Andes for a sunset horseback ride. You would still have time to unwind in your private outdoor stone bathtub overlooking a lagoon, with frogs and crickets serenading you as you sip on a crisp Recuerdo Torrontes.

Perfect initiation into the flavours of Argentina?

A leisurely 4- or 6 -course dinner at Gimenez Rilli, the small Valle de Uco restaurant of a fourth generation winemaking family. Very traditional Argentine foods are incorporated into the tasting menu, such as grilled provoleta, asado, and corn empanadas – simple and reflective of Argentine culture, and paired with incredible wines throughout.

If you could visit only three bodegas…?

For my tastes, Monteviejo, because they make more traditional French-style wines of very high quality. I’m not into fresh and fruit-forward – give me wine that’s been aged patiently in oak. SuperUco, because there they have some of the most playful and odd varietals and blends I’ve ever tried, such as a carbonated Malbec/Pinot Noir blend from JiJiJi. Also, their 2011 Genitori is just plain out-of-this-world yummy to me. I would then choose the solar-powered, very eco and sustainable Matervini, because their wines are difficult to get your hands on elsewhere – you either have to get them at the bodega or through their wine club. I always go home with their Finca Malbec, from vines that were planted in 1938.

Best meal you had?

I feel almost like a cliché, but I really can’t seem to get over Francis Mallmann’s restaurants. I keep thinking one day I might tire of them and the hype around them. But there is hype for a reason. For me, the two best meals I had in Mendoza happened at his restaurants – one at Siete Fuegos and one at 1884. The lamb at Siete Fuegos was so succulent, it practically dissolved on my fork. No fuss, no frills – just simple, rustic food cooked to absolute perfection. The restaurant got wind of the fact that it was my fiance’s birthday, and surprised him with the most detailed, sculptural, delicious cake that you could tell was made with much care and love – they offered not just a free dessert, it was a dessert made specially for him. It was touching. And 1884 – many people have tried to tell me that it’s past its prime or not worth the money. I wholeheartedly disagree. For me, Mallmann nails romance, simplicity, and passion like no one else when it comes to food, while never being uptight or pretentious. I got the ojo de bife. I live in Argentina and have had the chance to eat at all the top steakhouses here. His steak is my favourite, hands down.

Where to stay for ultra-luxury rooms and service?

Their rooms are basically a house, and oh how they are in the details. I get cranky when a hotel does not have a coffee machine in the room, because I wake up early, well before breakfast is usually served, and I want my coffee! The Vines not only has Nespresso machines, but milk and a cappuccino foam machine right on hand in each villa kitchen. The bath amenities are my very favourite, custom made from Fueguia in Buenos Aires. And the service is impeccable every time. There is so much communication between every staff member. Even if the hotel is completely full, they make it seem like you are the only guest, that their life revolves around being one step ahead to keep you euphoric.