A Journey Through Mexico | Hattie Mills

MEXICO CITY

Floating down the ancient canal on a painted wooden boat at dawn, then stepping onto a floating island for breakfast was unexpected from my second morning in Mexico City. While I sat eating freshly toasted, black corn tortillas topped with chicharron and other ingredients picked from the kitchen garden that morning, I couldn’t help but think about how this contrasted with previous days that had been filled with the noise, bustle, and energy you might expect from a capital city. And oh, what a capital it is.

An absolute highlight of any trip to Mexico is Mexico City itself. From the aforementioned floating chinampas islands to the historical city centre and the diverging neighbourhoods – earthy and local Coyoacan, sophisticated Polanco, and buzzy Roma – there’s enough to keep you busy here for days, if not weeks.

OAXACA

Oaxaca is culturally and gastronomically rich. Vibrant textiles and handicrafts come from the surrounding local villages and are sold in the city markets. There are a plethora of good bars and restaurants, colourful houses, colonial churches, archaeological sites, and some fantastic street art. It can feel quite touristy at times, particularly in the center, but there are a few lovely local neighbourhoods just a short walk away for those curious to see other sides of the city.

East of the grid is Jalatlaco, a barrio mágico (magical neighbourhood) where you could find all the butcher shops when the Spanish were in power. Now a local neighbourhood, it has charming cobbled streets, colourful murals and papel picado, the traditional Mexican bunting, hanging between the houses. There are a handful of cafes and restos but very few tourists. There’s also Xocimilco, the linen and weavers neighbourhood. Here the Leiva family can make you a customised bedspread. Straddling an old aqueduct, this barrio mágico is 10-12 blocks long and teeming with locals.

WHERE TO STAY

Escondido Oaxaca is the place for any design-conscious travelers looking for a small, stylish base in the city. Rooms are austere but warm, and there’s a great rooftop bar and pool.

For anyone after somewhere more historical, there’s the converted 16th-century convent, Quinta Real Oaxaca. It has abundant bougainvillea, a gorgeous pool, and a particularly atmospheric courtyard restaurant.

It’s a short 30-minute drive to Chuburna where we kayaked in the mangroves of the Emerald Coast. This is where some of the best birdwatching in the Americas can be found, with approximately 345 different species living here, including flamingo. November to March is the best time to visit for wildlife spotting and optimal weather.

Colourful fishing boats bobbed around us in the marina as we set off towards the shallow waters of the mangroves, which form natural shields against flooding and the occasional hurricane. Once at the beach, we got in our kayaks and paddled along the coastal waterways where we then maneuvered our way through the mangroves until reaching a freshwater cenote for a refreshing dip and then lunch back at the beach.

Chablé Yucatan is an old hacienda estate just a 40-minute drive from Merida, set in the middle of the Yucatan jungle. Each casita comes with a bike to zip around the hotel on, and en route you’ll see birds galore, small deer, and iguana. The spa is world-class (and has its very own cenote). There’s also a renowned onsite restaurant, Ixi’im, which serves a fusion of Mayan and Mexican food.

WHERE TO STAY

There are a lot of big players here like Auberge, Rosewood, and Belmond, but at PSA, we prefer the smaller guys. Chablé Maroma is a personal favourite, easily traversed by foot and Mexican-owned with a gorgeous spa and two restaurants on-site.

The early morning yoga class on the beach was a highlight of my stay.

There’s also chic Hotel Esencia, reached down a small dirt road, hiding a sophisticated sanctuary in the middle of the mangrove forest, frequented by A-listers and anyone in the know. The new speakeasy bar here with hand-painted murals was gorgeous and atmospheric.

Note:

When I got home, I was asked a lot about safety in Mexico. A few negative news stories have put-off visitors, but as a solo female traveller, I felt very at ease throughout the trip. Merida is lauded as one of the safest cities in Mexico, I was out late in laid-back Oaxaca and Mexico City felt like many other capitals where you just need to have your wits about you.